What can I say, I'm partial to this one
Not to be confused with Trinity Wall Street (though they are run by the same church), Trinity Church Cemetery and Mausoleum stands on the site of the Battle of Harlem Heights, fought by George Washington against the British—and is a personal favorite of mine. I live within walking distance, and the westerly division of the cemetery makes for a good workout, as it’s pretty steep, so I go walking there a lot.
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Aside from the history and the number of fascinating people buried here, what I love most about this cemetery is its casual state of disrepair—alternately charming and creepy. Broken and weathered tombstones, half-missing iron gates, vaults with chunks missing from the doors—I’m not advocating for letting cemeteries fall into disrepair in general, but it certainly makes for a creepy vibe.
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While it’s not big enough to be overwhelming like Green-Wood or Woodlawn, Trinity Cemetery is full of so many lovely little details that, though I’ve been there more times than I can count, I always notice something new, and it never fails to delight me. I even spotted a black cat there once.
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So while I wouldn’t recommend going out of your way to see this cemetery if you only have a few days in NYC, it’s definitely a spot worth visiting if you have some time on your hands and love checking out historic cemeteries. Or hey, on the off-chance that you’re doing a cemeteries only tour of Manhattan, this one should definitely be on your itinerary.
Visiting ideas
There are three entrances to the cemetery: one at the bottom of the westerly division on Riverside Dr, one on the side of the westerly division on 153rd St, and one on the other side of the easterly division near the Church of the Intercession. The first two are almost always open, but the third (which is the only gate by which you can enter the easterly division) has more limited hours. If you live nearby and have the leisure to split your visit into two separate trips, I’d recommend seeing one half of the cemetery at a time. Neither half is that big (at least, not compared to other NYC cemeteries), but it’s nice to be able to take your time, as each half of the cemetery has its own charm, and there are lots of interesting details you’ll notice if you go slowly.
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If that’s not an option, I’d recommend entering via the cemetery office on Riverside Dr, stopping at Clement Clarke Moore’s grave at the bottom of the cemetery, and threading your way through the westerly division before crossing the street to wander through the easterly division. It really doesn’t matter that much which order you see them in. Just be aware that Audubon is in the easterly division, and if you enter via that gate (near the Church of the Intercession), you can’t miss his monument.
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You can also pick up a map in the cemetery office or at the Main Gate (both in the westerly division), which will tell you where to find all the famous people and points of interest. Ralph Ellison, author of The Invisible Man, is interred in the mausoleum at the bottom of the westerly division, as is actor Jerry Orbach. If you work your way up the hill and keep an eye out, you should see the Astor plot: final resting place of John Jacob Astor and many of his family members, including John Jacob Astor IV who died on the Titanic. Around the corner is the Jumel vault, where the second wife of Aaron Burr—who reportedly haunts the Morris-Jumel Mansion nearby, is buried.
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The last famous person I’ll mention in the westerly division is Alfred Tennyson Dickens—son of Charles Dickens and godson of Tennyson, hence the name—who died in NYC while visiting for the centennial of his father’s birth. Trinity Church graciously hosted a funeral and offered him burial. His tombstone is a little off the beaten path, almost all the way to the far edge of the cemetery closest to The Church of the Intercession.
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In short, the westerly division has more famous people, but the easterly is a nicer stroll and has Audubon—and both have their share of both charming details and atmospheric creepiness.
About a 10-minute walk away is the Morris-Jumel Mansion, a real-life haunted house with a long and fascinating history (Washington headquartered there; self-made woman Eliza Jumel lived there with her husband Aaron Burr; and Lin-Manuel Miranda wrote some Hamilton lyrics there). Be sure to walk up to the Mansion via Sylvan Terrace (just above 160th St). That’s the only way to do it right.
In brief
Rating & Visiting info
3.5: pretty cool, def worth a visit if you live in Manhattan and like cemeteries
Open to the public 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. The cemetery is split in the middle by Broadway, and the easterly division is only open Tuesday through Thursday, while the westerly half is open Monday through Saturday. (So if you want to see the whole thing, go Tuesday through Thursday).
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October or November, when the fall colors are gorgeous and the stone stairs are strewn with leaves, is my favorite time to visit, though in winter the bare trees are sufficiently creepy and in spring there are some truly vibrant trees and flowers.
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There's a trailer bathroom in the westerly division, at the bottom of the hill. Have never used it so can't recommend.
Founding & Famous people
1842
John James Audubon, Clement Clarke Moore (author of The Night Before Christmas), Ralph Ellison, Jerry Orbach, John Jacob Astor, Eliza Jumel, Alfred Tennyson Dickens
Location & Nearby sites
Harlem
Take the C to 155th St and walk west toward Riverside Dr; or take the 1 to 157th St and walk south to 155th St, then west to Riverside Dr. You can also take the M4 or M5 bus to Broadway and W 153rd St.​
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Nearby sites include Audubon Terrace, which houses the Hispanic Society Museum and Libraries, the Morris Jumel Mansion, and Hamilton Grange (Alexander Hamilton's uptown residence). There are plenty of good Latin American restaurants in the area, including 4 Brothers: a no-frills establishment on 145th and Amsterdam with authentic Mexican food and waiters who only speak Spanish.
